Ravenna, the Rubicon, and personal renaissance as an article of faith

Sant' Apollinare Nuovo
Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo

Then Solomon began to build the house of the Lord in Jerusalem on Mount Moriah, where the Lord had appeared to his father David, at the place that David had prepared on the threshing floor of Ornan the Jebusite. He began to build on the second day in the second month of the fourth year of his reign. Now these are the foundations which Solomon laid for building the house of God… Thus all the work that Solomon performed for the house of the Lord was finished. And Solomon brought in the things that David his father had dedicated, even the silver and the gold and all the utensils, and put them in the treasuries of the house of God. – 2 Chronicles 3:1-3 – 2 Chronicles 5:1

Over-the-top but wonderful:

Most of the amazing photographs in today’s post have to do with some kind of church or sacred space. When I see such elaborate buildings I tend to harbor opposing thoughts: First, “What an excessive display of opulence and over-the-top expenditure!” Second, “This is some phenomenal testimony to – and expression – of deep faith.”

Sant' Apollinare Nuovo
Sant’ Apollinare Nuovo

Some of today’s key words include “Byzantine,” “mosaic,” “art,” “Sixth-Century,” “Ravenna,” “ornate,” and “antiquity…” Add the usual tags of cappuccino, espresso, vino, and pasta – and you know we have to be somewhere fabulous in Italy.

At the end of this post I’m going to share a series of photographs from the inside of the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. I promise, even if you’re not a serious art lover, a student of antiquities, or an aficionado of Byzantine architecture, you will be completely blown away by what you see.

Take a year of art history at a major liberal arts college… or hop on a plane to Italy and spend a few days in Ravenna. Elect the Ravenna option and you’ll not only know more than the college student, you’ll save a boat-load of money in the process.

DSC_1111GEM: Our hotel in Gatteo a Mare was just a short walk from train station, so we left Andrew’s sporty Euro-car behind and took the train to Ravenna. Most Americans don’t have Ravenna on their tour agenda; that’s a shame because it’s a beautiful city, walkable, and home to eight World Heritage sites.

We started by exploring the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. The building, built in 504, is a more complete example of Byzantine art and architecture even than San Marco in Venice. The play of light from the overlapping arches and domes, accentuated by the brilliant mosaic work, is nothing short of breathtaking.

We could have stayed for hours, but – after the obligatory relaxed lunch on the Piazza dei Popolo – there was much more to see, including the Tomb of Dante, the Baptistry of Neon, the Archiepiscopal Museum, the Basilica of Sant’ Apollinare in Classe,the Mausoleum of Galla, and San Giovanni Evangelista (walk-by).

Ravenna - beautiful town
Ravenna – beautiful town

QUIET: The streets of Ravenna are – for Italy in August – relatively quiet. The city is off the beaten path of tourism, but blessed with – arguably – the most complete collection of Byzantine architecture anywhere in Europe.

During the days of empire, Ravenna was home to the Roman fleet, and it was also the legendary location where Julius Caesar mustered his legions – and his ambition – before making the historic decision to “Cross the Rubicon.” It is where he uttered his famous phrase “alea iacta est” – the die is cast.

Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe (549)
Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe (549)

For Rebekah and me (grateful adventurers in Italy committed to embracing new destinations and experiences) Ravenna was well on the other side of our Rubicon. “The die was cast” thirty-five years ago, when we made covenant promises the day we were married. We’re always moving forward, it’s a way of life and a huge part of what it means to be together.

For our relationship, growth and renaissance is an article of faith.

(look below for more images you can’t miss!)

One comment

Leave a Reply